For many, surfing embodies both a spiritual and physical discipline. The warm sun shines brightly, creating anticipation for the waves, the salt, and hopefully some solitude.

For the more mature surfers, a warm-up and some stretching is vital to avoid injury.

Preparing the lower back

Time for the quads

One more for the obliques

Following an intense warm-up begins the almost religious board preparation.

Waxing for better grip

One last application

Then one last check of the safety gear.

Surfer Safety

Then, it’s time to begin the plunge. But first, one last look for a surfing buddy who slept too late.

Looking for my buddy

A quick smile at a questioning passerby.

Surfs up and thumbs up!

Then begins the therapeutic journey into the waiting surf. The familiar tug of the undertow can be felt pulling the sand from beneath the feet, while a strong current tugs at the legs.

Will the day bring success? Sharks? Bangs and bruises? Only time will tell. One thing is certain: the thrill of the waves makes facing all the unknowns worthwhile.